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What’s your favorite beach book? I don’t know anything about this one but loved the cover. My designer, Shawn Bathe, is currently working on the cover for my upcoming book “Drive Fast and Take Chances: Advance Warning from the Lives of Surfers.” It’s a collection of surfer profiles, from a surfer who joined the Army just so he could surf Pipe, to dare devil Garrett McNamara’s glacier wave attempt, to big-wave surfers on meth, to cancer survivor Dean Randazzo, to Bob Simmon’s greatest bike ride.
Keep your eyes peeled for it.
It’s live: we read the wind in textures, we hear the sounds, place ourselves in the moment, measure ourselves against it, and we make our opinions known to anyone who will listen — but the truth is, there’s close to nothing a webcast fan can do to influence the on-site action of a world tour surfing event.
Yet it’s not impossible. In August Sean Mattison — former pro surfer, USA team coach and design geek of note — rolled his ankle while deploying a power snap in front of one of his young athletes, Courtney Cologne. The embarrassment healed better than the sprain. “Anytime I tried to do anything,” he said, “it’d swell up.” So a strong part of his rehab regime included watching every competition webcast, heat-by-heat, sitting in his kitchen, his ankle propped on a stool. Beginning with the U.S. Open, it turned out to be a pretty full contest schedule. Mattison told himself that he was studying heats to the benefit of the elite teen surfers he coached. They might find themselves in similar competition some day. But there was a part of Mattison that was just fanning-out as well. Continue reading

As director of a conservation organization, Serge Dedina puts in a lot of field work along remote coasts. Photo: Kimball Taylor
“Tourism and surf travel are not the same,” said Reef co-founder Fernando Aguerre, “Tourism is like a whorehouse, the best beds go for the biggest money. Surf travel is different.”
Aguerre was letting loose at the first- ever “symposium” on surf travel and philanthropy held September 17. An academic conference or “intellectual jam session” built on speeches, panel discussions, and lectures, the symposium was a gathering of people with deeper interests in surf destinations and their communities. The inaugural event had been established by San Diego State University’s Center for Surf Research — in itself a new and unique entity — and drew a who’s who of surf explorers, environmentalists and humanitarians. Wilderness conservation organizations like Wildcoast shared a venue with humanitarian outfits like SurfAid — whose work toward defeating malaria in the Mentawai islands set the gold-standard for surf-themed aid work. The common thread, many discovered, was the need for healthy breaks and healthy host communities. Continue reading
My first collection of surf stories has had a great and interesting life as a paperback, but now it’s gone digital. If you have a Kindle, add it to your jet-set library.
A true Santo of California surfing and a devotee in the footsteps of Tom Curren and Mickey Dora, Bobby Martinez may not be on the world tour, but he will never be forgotten. Long live B-Mart. Long live the California rebel tradition. Viva los Californios!