From the big-wave surfers of Tahiti and the salty hurricane chasers of New England, to the cliffs of Molokai’s infamous leper colony and the Wild Coast of South Africa’s Transkei Homeland, Return by Waver brings light to surfers’ lives around the world with amazing sense of place and deft character portraits of the famous, ordinary and irascible surfer alike.
“A series of surf stories that tell us more about why we live as surfers than how we do it.” —Brad Melekian, Surfer Magazine
“Taylor has built a reputation as a trusted voice to those who matter most—his fellow surfers.” —Scott Hulet, The Surfers Journal
“Kimball Taylor writes with succinct clarity, beguiling empathy and a crazed, matter of fact humor that will delight most anyone who loves a story. He travels the world, knows it’s oceans and understands that getting to the water and meeting the people along the way is essential to the joy of surfing.” —Timothy J. Barger, Selwa Press
“Humorous tales that allow the reader to drift off and place themselves in Kimball’s flip-flops.” —Rocco S. Sucato
Available now on Amazon.com.
Sample Chapter from “Return by Water: Surf Stories and Adventures.”